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Posted on 16.07.202307.01.2025 by Sitalkina Alena

Double (hollow) ribbing

Double (or hollow) ribbing is a pattern consisting of two sections of stockinette stitch, where the stitches are held on the needles simultaneously but knitted alternately. Double ribbing can be used as an edging for garments, a waistband, a collar, etc. Unlike regular ribbing, double ribbing does not have elastic properties but stabilizes the fabric and prevents the edges of the main piece from curling.

As noted above, double ribbing consists of two sections, which makes it twice as thick as the main fabric. This feature should be considered when choosing it as a design element.

Double ribbing also has a hollow space between its two sections, hence its alternate name, hollow ribbing. This property allows its use as a waistband, a casing for a drawstring, or a hidden closure.

The lack of elasticity in double ribbing is compensated by its stability. For this reason, it is often used for knitting collars and imitate whipstitching the collar to the neckline.

Some theory

Double ribbing consists of two sections whose stitches are held on the needles simultaneously but are knitted alternately. In one row, you knit the stitches of one section, and in the next row, the stitches of the other. For convenience, let us call these sections the “front” and “back,” though both appear as stockinette fabric.

The front sections of the double ribbing
(right side of the garment)

The back sections of the double ribbing
(wrong side of the garment)

At the beginning of the work, the stitches of the main fabric (or the cast-on edge, if you start knitting the garment with a double ribbing) must be doubled. Then, you knit the ribbing to the desired width. At the end, join the two sections and bind off the stitches (or proceed to knitting the main fabric).

You can double the stitches in several ways: by making yarn overs, picking up stitches from the previous row, or casting on the required number of stitches using an Italian cast-on method (if the project starts with double ribbing). This article explains in detail how to double stitches using twisted yarn overs.

The transition from the fabric to the double ribbing can be made invisible or highlighted with a horizontal line of purl stitches.

The invisible transition from the fabric to the double ribbing

The horizontal line of purl stitches highlights the transition from the fabric to the double ribbing

Double ribbing can be knitted flat (in rows) or in the round. It can also be made with yarn in one or two colors.

The two sections of double ribbing can be joined invisibly or highlighted. If double ribbing is used to finish the project, the joining of the two sections can coincide with binding off the stitches, or two sections can be joined first and then bound off using needles, a crochet hook, or a tapestry needle.

For knitting double ribbing, use needles smaller than the main ones (0.5–1.5 mm thinner).
You can remove one ply from the work if the yarn consists of 5–6 plies.
If double ribbing widens the edge, knit one row with smaller needles or evenly decrease a few stitches before starting it.

Getting to Practice

Double ribbing can be knitted flat (in rows) or in the round.

For flat knitting:
– RS (right side of the garment) – knit the front section’s stitches of the ribbing,
– WS (wrong side of the garment) – knit the back section’s stitches of the ribbing.
When knitting flat, the edge stitch is a conditional term. It may consist of one, two, or three stitches. Also, the edges may be separated from the ribbing with one purl stitch.

For circular knitting, you always work on the right side of the garment. In odd-numbered rows, knit the front section’s stitches; in even-numbered rows, purl the back section’s stitches.

Knitting/purling stitches from one section, slip the stitches of the other section. To slip a stitch: transfer it from the left needle to the right without knitting. Insert the right needle as if to purl (the stitch’s position on the needle remains unchanged). The working yarn always stays “inside” the double ribbing, regardless of the knitting direction.

Double Ribbing Worked Flat

Stitch Doubling Row (RS): selvage stitch, *YO, knit 1. Repeat from * to the end, the last stitch is selvage.
Back Sections Shaping Row (WS): selvage stitch, *slip 1 with yarn in front, knit 1 twisted. Repeat from * to the end, the last stitch is selvage.

Main Double Ribbing Pattern (2 stitches, 2 rows).
Row 1 (RS): selvage stitch, *slip 1 with yarn in front, knit 1. Repeat from * to the end, the last stitch is selvage.
Row 2 (WS): work like Row 1.
Repeat the Main Double Ribbing Pattern until the ribbing reaches the desired width.

Joining Two Sections of Double Ribbing.
Joining Row (RS): selvage stitch, *knit 2 together. Repeat from * to the end, the last stitch is selvage.
If the double ribbing finishes the project, you can bind off the stitches while joining the sections.
Joining and Binding Off Row (RS): selvage stitch, *knit 2 together, pass the first stitch over the second on the right needle, and drop it off. Repeat from * to the end, and finish the selvage stitch the same way. Cut the yarn, and pull it through the last stitch.

Double Ribbing in the Round

Stitch Doubling Round: *YO, knit 1. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Back Sections Shaping Round: *purl 1 twisted, slip 1 with yarn in back. Repeat from * to the end of the round.

Main Double Ribbing Pattern (2 stitches, 2 rounds).
Round 1: *slip 1 with yarn in front, knit 1. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Round 2: *purl 1, slip 1 with yarn in back. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Repeat the Main Double Ribbing Pattern until the ribbing reaches the desired width.

Joining Two Sections of Double Ribbing.
Joining Round: *knit 2 together. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
If the double ribbing finishes the project, you can bind off the stitches while joining the sections.
Joining and Binding Off Round: knit 2 together, *knit 2 together, pass the first stitch over the second on the right needle, and drop it off. Repeat from * to the end of the round. At last, join the binding off in the round: cut the working yarn, pull it through the last stitch, then through the two loops of the first stitch, and back through the last stitch in the opposite direction. Hide the yarn tail inside the double ribbing.

For an elastic edge, join the two sections first, then bind off using a yarn needle and stem stitch or a backstitch method.

The stem stitch binds off with a yarn needle

The backstitch binds off with a yarn needle

The edge of the ribbing will be maximally elastic if you choose the tubular bind-off method for the joining of the two sections. Read more about fabric edge and tubular bind-off here.

Double Ribbing in the Round; the tubular bind-off

If you want to separate the front section of the double ribbing from the main garment with a horizontal line of purl stitches while performing the Stitch Doubling Row/Round, replace the knit stitches with purl stitches. In this case, I also recommend using purl stitches to join the two sections of the ribbing (including when binding off).

If you want to separate the back section of the double ribbing from the main garment with a horizontal line of purl stitches while performing the Back Sections Shaping Row/Round, replace the stitches as follows:
– Back Sections Shaping Row (Double Ribbing Worked Flat, WS): selvage stitch, *slip 1 with yarn in front, purl 1 twisted. Repeat from * to the end, the last stitch is selvage;
– Back Sections Shaping Round (Double Ribbing in the Round): *knit 1 twisted, slip 1 with yarn in back. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
In this case, the double ribbing will not be separated from the main garment on the right side, and you can join the two sections or bind off the stitches in any way.

Double ribbing can also serve as a decorative element. You can knit sections in different colors or add separation lines for emphasis.

Let’s call the color of the front section of the double ribbing the main color (MC), and the color of the back section the contrast color (CC).

Double Ribbing in the Round
Work the Stitch Doubling Round in MC, and the Back Sections Shaping Round in CC. Then, work the odd rounds of the Main Double Ribbing Pattern in MC, and the even rounds in CC. The joining of the two sections or binding off should be done in MC. While knitting in one color, the other color remains on the side of the work it corresponds to (MC on the right side of the garment, CC on the wrong side).

Double Ribbing Worked Flat
Adjustments to the technique are necessary. You will need double-pointed knitting needles. During the process, you should alternately work the rows for the front and back sections of the ribbing without turning the work.

Stitch Doubling Row (RS, MC): selvage stitch, *YO, knit 1. Repeat from * to the end, the last stitch is selvage.
Do NOT turn the work to the wrong side;
instead, slide the stitches back to the beginning of the row.
Back Sections Shaping Row (RS, CC): slip selvage stitch, *purl 1 twisted, slip 1 with yarn in back. Repeat from * to the selvage stitch, and slip it.
Having completed two rows on RS, turn the work to WS.

Main Double Ribbing Pattern (2 stitches, 4 rows).
Row 1 (WS, MC): selvage stitch, *purl 1, slip 1 with yarn in back. Repeat from * to the end, the last stitch is selvage.
Do NOT turn the work to RS, slide the stitches back to the beginning of the row.
Row 2 (WS, CC): slip selvage stitch, *slip 1 with yarn in front, knit 1. Repeat from * to the end, the last stitch is selvage.
Having completed two rows on WS, turn the work to RS.
Row 3 (RS, MC): selvage stitch, *slip 1 with yarn in front, knit 1. Repeat from * to the end, the last stitch is selvage.
Do NOT turn the work to WS, slide the stitches back to the beginning of the row.
Row 4 (RS, CC): slip selvage stitch, *purl 1, slip 1 with yarn in back. Repeat from * to the end, the last stitch is selvage.
Having completed two rows on RS, turn the work to WS.
Repeat the Main Double Ribbing Pattern until the ribbing reaches the desired width.
Joining/binding off the work as you wish.

If you want to use the contrast color (CC) not only for knitting the back section of the ribbing but also to separate the ribbing from the main fabric, knit the last row of the main fabric in CC before starting the ribbing. In this case, it is also recommended to join the two sections of the ribbing or bind off the stitches in CC.

Two-color Double Ribbing Worked Flat
(you will need to select the desired subtitle language)

Double ribbing can also be incorporated into a pattern or used to embellish specific elements of a garment.

Read more about color stripes here (Instagram).

For instructions on adding internal color accents to double ribbing, refer to the YouTube video (you will need to select the desired subtitle language).

Posted on 07.02.202308.01.2025 by Sitalkina Alena

Chain stitch as a base for creating a collar and crewneck band

The neckline, like the shoulder seam lines, is the foundation on which the entire garment is built. In my opinion, these lines should be additionally reinforced if we want to preserve the garment’s appearance, prevent deformation, and enjoy wearing it for a long time.

Reinforcement of the neckline can be achieved with the cast-on or bind-off edge when we knit the garment with the neckline joined in the round (or with a closure). In this case, the neckline is shaped by working short rows.

If the neckline is not joined in the round, and it is shaped by increasing stitches (in top-down knitting) or decreasing stitches (in bottom-up knitting), the additional reinforcement can be provided by seams, such as a backstitch seam or a chain stitch.

Imitation of backstitch seaming based on a chain stitch

Today, we will talk about the chain stitch.

The chain stitch as a base for creating a collar, single and double neckbands, and an imitation of backstitch seaming.

The chain stitch can be worked using a yarn needle or a crochet hook.
The chain stitch worked with a yarn needle is more elastic; when worked with a crochet hook, it is more stable.

The front side of the chain stitch consists of double loops that look like links of a chain.
The back side of the chain stitch consists of single stitches (back bumps) that look like a backstitch seam.

The front side of the chain stitch
worked with a crochet hook

The front side of the chain stitch
worked with a yarn needle

To reinforce the neckline, I recommend working the chain stitch along the edge using a crochet hook.

The stitches of the chain (from the front and/or back side) will serve as the foundation for picking up stitches for the neckband, collar, or the two parts of the neckline’s “pocket”.

Neckline’s “pocket”
based on a chain stitch

I usually choose the crochet hook size for the chain stitch according to the size of the knitting needles used for the garment. The yarn should not be thicker than the one used for the garment.

Work the chain stitch along the edge of the neckline, leaving 1-2 rows/stitches from the edge.

The chain stitch can be worked along the neckline either from the right or wrong side of the garment. The appearance of the joining neckline and the neckband/collar depends on which side the chain stitch is worked and how the stitches are picked up from it.

Working the chain stitch from the right side of the garment:

On the right side of the garment,
the crochet hook with one (working) chain stitch.

Insert the crochet hook into the fabric from the right side to the wrong side.

On the wrong side, grab the working yarn and draw it through to the right side.

On the right side of the garment,
there are two stitches on the crochet hook.

Pull the last stitch through the one that was on the hook
(through the working chain stitch).

Only one (working) chain stitch remains on the crochet hook

The chain stitches are visible on the right side of the garment; the single stitches (like the backstitch seam) are visible on the wrong side of the garment along the neckline.

Working the chain stitch from the wrong side of the garment:

On the wrong side of the garment,
the crochet hook with one (working) chain stitch.

Insert the crochet hook into the fabric from the wrong side to the right side.

On the right side, grab the working yarn and draw it through to the wrong side.

On the wrong side of the garment,
there are two stitches on the crochet hook.

Pull the second stitch through the first.

One working chain stitch remains on the crochet hook

The single stitches (like the backstitch seam) are visible on the right side of the garment; the chain stitches are visible on the wrong side of the garment along the neckline.

In the process of working the chain stitch, ensure that all the chain stitches are the same size as the stitches in the garment.

On horizontal sections (such as the back neckline, saddle-shoulders, or the flat horizontal part of the front neckline), insert the crochet hook into each stitch of the main fabric (1).
On vertical sections (such as the initial neck shaping on the front), the chain stitches should correspond to the knitting gauge (2). That is, for standard gauge, where 3 stitches correspond to 4 rows, insert the crochet hook into the main fabric for three consecutive rows (work three chain stitches), and skip the fourth row. If you’re knitting the denser fabric, make two chain stitches every three rows, or even insert the crochet hook into the fabric every other row.
For curved sections of the front neckline (where stitches are increased), work the chain stitch in such a way that the neckline edge is reinforced but not overly tight. The chain stitches should remain consistent in size around the entire neckline. Often, on sections with initial increases (3), chain stitches are worked according to the knitting gauge, while on more clearly rounded sections, one chain stitch corresponds to one stitch of the main fabric (4).

If you plan to knit the neckband or collar with ribbing, make sure the number of chain stitches corresponds to the ribbing’s pattern.

We can also pick up stitches based on the chain stitch either from the front side (double loops) or from the back side (bumps).

If we need to pick up stitches from the back side of the chain stitch on the garment’s wrong side, and we’re using the same yarn, I recommend highlighting the bumps with a contrasting thread during the work chain stitch.

The highlighted bumps will make it easier to pick up stitches.

You can also incorporate the knitting needles during the process of making the chain stitch by wrapping the working yarn around the needle cord as you complete each stitch. In this case, we won’t need to highlight the back bumps — they will already be on the needles.

Let’s move on to picking up stitches based on the chain stitch.

We’ll start with the back side of the chain stitch, which looks like a backstitch seam (back bumps).

If we place the garment with the neckline closer to ourselves and pick up stitches from the back bumps,

the back bumps of the chain stitch will remain visible, and the joining garment and the neckband or collar will look like a backstitch seam.

If we place the garment with the neckline away from ourselves and pick up stitches from the back bumps,

the back bumps will be “inside” (between the garment and the neckband), and the joining will look like a picking up along the edge.

A picking up stitches from the front side of the chain stitch (double loops).

In this case, we can pick up stitches from one of the two loops of the chain. To avoid confusion, let’s define that the loop of the chain closer to the neckline edge (1) will be called the TOP loop, and those further from the edge (2) will be called the BOTTOM loop.

If we place the garment with the neckline away from ourselves and pick up stitches from the BOTTOM loops (2),

the chain stitches will be “inside” (between the garment and the neckband), and the joining will look like a picking up along the edge too.

If we place the garment with the neckline closer to ourselves and pick up stitches from the BOTTOM loops (2),

these loops of the chain stitch will remain visible, and the joining garment and the neckband or collar will look like a backstitch seam.

If we place the garment with the neckline closer to ourselves and pick up stitches from the TOP loops (1),

both loops of the chain stitch will remain visible, with horizontal bars of the picking-up stitches between them.
This picking-up method is particularly interesting if the chain stitch and the picking-up stitches are worked in different colors.

If we place the garment with the neckline closer to ourselves and pick up stitches from both loops (1 and 2),

only two loops of the chain stitch will be visible. The working yarn will pass below the chain stitch. The joining garment and the neckband or collar will look like a chain.

If it’s difficult to pick up stitches from the chain stitch with just a needle, use a crochet hook instead.

Double neckband and the “pocket” of the neckline.

If you want to knit a collar or a single neckband, it’s enough to pick up stitches from the chain stitch on the garment’s right side.

If you want to finish the neckline with a double neckband or place the edge of the neckline inside the “pocket,” you will need to pick up stitches on both sides of the garment (from both sides of the chain stitch) and knit the two parts of the neckband (or the neckline’s “pocket”) alternately.

The back part of the double neckband
(knitted from the chain stitches on the garment’s wrong side)

The front part of the double neckband
(knitted with brown yarn from the chain stitches
on the garment’s right side)

The width of the two parts can be the same (the same number of rows/rounds worked).
Alternatively, the front part of the double neckband can be made wider (work one or two more rows/rounds than the back part). In this case, the neckband will appear more bulkier.

Having worked both parts of the double neckband, join them together using the three-needle method.

When using the three-needle method, make sure that the stitches of the front and back parts of the double neckband are joined without any shifting.

If you’re knitting a narrow neckband (1–2 cm), you can immediately bind off the stitches while joining their two parts.

If you’re knitting a neckline’s “pocket” which will be continued as a collar, its width is 0.7–1.5 cm. After joining the two parts of the “pocket”, continue knitting the collar.

Working a chain stitch, picking up stitches, knitting, and joining two parts of the double neckband and neckline’s “pocket” on the video:

Flat knitting
(you will need to select the desired subtitle language)

Circular knitting
(you will need to select the desired subtitle language)

Posted on 27.01.202308.02.2023 by Sitalkina Alena

Fabric edge. Tubular Bind Off

The main function of the ribbing is to create an elastic edge of the fabric. To get an elastic and even edge of the ribbing, it is advisable to bind off stitches using a yarn needle. In this article, we will review the tubular bind off, which imitates the Italian cast on, provides a beautiful “factory” edge and at the same time retains the elasticity of the ribbing.

Starting conditions.
1. There is ribbing k1p1 on the knitting needle: knit 1, purl 1.
2. Measure the working yarn 3.5…4 times longer than the width / circumference of the fabric edge.
3. Cut the working yarn and thread it into a yarn needle.

The tubular bind off consists of four steps:

Step 1. Insert the yarn needle knitwise into the first knit stitch (from left to right)

Step 1. Draw the yarn through the first knit stitch

Step 2. Insert the yarn needle purlwise into the next knit stitch (from right to left)

Step 2. Draw the yarn through the next knit stitch

Step 2. This knit stitch remains on the knitting needle (it becomes the first knit stitch)

Step 3. Insert the yarn needle purlwise into the first purl stitch (from right to left)

Step 3. Draw the yarn through the first purl stitch

Step 4. Insert the yarn needle knitwise into the next purl stitch (from left to right)

Step 4. Draw the yarn through the purl stitch

Step 4. This purl stitch remains on the knitting needle (it becomes the first purl stitch)

Having completed all four steps, repeat Step 1 to Step 4.

We can simplify the Step 4 and split it into two:

Step 4.1. Draw the yarn needlle between the first two stitches from back to front.

The working yarn comes out between the first knit and first purl stitches

There is the working yarn on the front side

Step 4.2. Insert the yarn needle knitwise into the purl stitch (the second stitch on the left knitting needle).

Draw the working yarn through the purl stitch

This purl stitch remains on the knitting needle (it becomes the first purl stitch)

As a result, we get the same looks at the end of the work rapport:

The tubular bind off (circular knitting)

If you “see” the stitches well, you can work the tubular bind off as follows.
At the moment of inserting the yarn needle into the stitch for the first time (step 2 and step 4), drop it off from the knitting needle. Re-inserting the yarn needle into the stitch (step 1 and step 3) is already done in the fabric.
This method, in my opinion, gives a more even edge line.

The tubular bind off (with dropped stitches)

If you purl stitches throught the back loop with eastern or “grandmother’s” way (they are located left loop in front on the knitting needle), pay attention to the yarn needle inserting, do not twist the stitches when bind off.

The tubular bind off (purl stitches with eastern or “grandmother’s” way)

You can work one or two pairs of double (hollow) ribbing rows before tubular bind off. This will provide a rounder edge to the ribbing.

Double (hollow) ribbing is a type of ribbing with slipped stitches. Rapport consists of two stitches and two (pair) rows / rounds.

The method is that each stitch is worked alternately in only one of the two rows. If the stitch was knitted in the first of two rows, then in the second it is slipped to the right knitting needle. And vice versa – if the stitch was not knitted in the first row, then it must be knitted in the next. The working yarn passes “inside” the fabric when the stitch is slipping.

Double Ribbing (circular knitting):
Round 1: *knit 1, slip 1 with yarn in front. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Round 2: *slip 1 with yarn in back, purl 1. Repeat from * to the end of the round.

Double Ribbing (flat knitting).
Row 1 (RS): *knit 1, slip 1 with yarn in front. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 2 (WS): repeat Row 1.

Return to the ribbing binding off.

If you want to get a straight edge without thickening, after working the wish depth of the ribbing, move to the tubular bind off.

If you want to get a little thickening along the edge of the ribbing, make the edge more rounded, make one pair of the double ribbing rows, and then bind off.

One pair of the double ribbing rows + the tubular bind off

If you want to get a voluminous hollow roll along the edge of the ribbing, make two pairs of the double ribbing rows, and then bind off.

Two pairs of the double ribbing rows + the tubular bind off

All three presented options can be used in the fabric. For knitting flat non-elastic ribbing (for example, from carded yarn), it is more suitable to bind off without double ribbing. The more elastic the ribbing is in the fabric, the more pairs of double ribbing rows you can make before binding off.

The tubular bind off can be used to bind off the ribbing k2p2.
In this case, before binding off the stitches, it is necessary to pass the ribbing k2p2 to the ribbing k1p1.

Starting conditions.
There is the ribbing k2p2 on the knitting needle: knit 2, purl 2.

Pass row / round: *knit 1, cross next two stitches on the left knitting needle to the LEFT (the knit stitch moves to the second place on the left knitting needle in front, the purl stitch moves to the first place in back), purl 1, knit 1, purl 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row / round.

How to pass the ribbing k2p2 to the ribbing k1p1

We have the ribbing k1p1 on the knitting needle after completing a Pass row / round.
Then we can bind off the stitches using the algorithm presented above (including using a double ribbing rows).

When Pass row is done, the edge of the ribbing becomes tighter. Therefore, the elasticity of the ribbing is a prerequisite for using this method.

If you are working a flat/non-elastic ribbing, the yarn does not provide elasticity and the tubular bind off tightens the edge, you can increase the stitches before binding off. So that at the same time the edge does not fald, pass to the double ribbing. In this case, two Pass rows / rounds must be worked.

The passing from the ribbing k2p2 to the double ribbing (circular knitting):
Pass round 1: *knit 2, slip 1 with yarn in front, M1L, slip 1 with yarn in front. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Pass round 2: *slip 1 with yarn in back, M1R (increase the purl stitch), 1 slip 1 with yarn in back, purl 1, slip 1 with yarn in back, purl 1. Repeat from * to the end of the round.

The passing from the ribbing k2p2 to the double ribbing (flat knitting):
Pass row 1 (RS): *knit 2, slip 1 with yarn in front, M1L, slip 1 with yarn in front. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Pass row 2 (WS): *knit 1, slip 1 with yarn in front, knit 1, slip 1 with yarn in front, M1L, slip 1 with yarn in front. Repeat from * to the end of the row.

M1R and M1L – increase stitches into the bar between two stitches.

M1R – Make 1 Right: on RS / WS insert left knitting needle from back to front, under the bar between next stitch on left knitting needle and last stitch on right knitting needle; knit / purl this bar through the front loop.

M1L – Make 1 Left: on RS / WS insert left knitting needle from front to back, under the bar between next stitch on left knitting needle and last stitch on right knitting needle; knit / purl this bar through the back loop.

Increase stitches into the bar between two stitches

The passing from the ribbing k2p2 to the double ribbing with increasing stitches (circular knitting)

Thus, 4 stitches of the ribbing k2p2 were passed to 6 stitches of the double ribbing. Next, I recommend to work one or two pairs of the double ribbing rows and only then bind off the stitches.

Two pass rows + two rows of the double ribbin (one pair) + the tubular bind off

Another option of the non-elastic ribbing bind off is the stockinette stitch hollow roll.

Transfer the ribbing to the stockinette stitch, work one row / round with decreasing every fourth stitch.
Transfer row / round: *knit 2, knit 2 together. Repeat from * to the end of the row / round.
Thus, 4 stitches of the ribbing k2p2 were transferred to 3 stitches of the stockinette stitch.
Next, work 4-5 rows / rounds of the stockinette stitch and, using a yarn needle, graft the open stitches of the last worked row / round to the transfer row / round, matching stitch for stitch. Grafting is done on the wrong side.

Bind off with the stockinette stitch hollow roll
(you will need to select the desired subtitle language)

This article presented the main ways of the tubular bind off and the examples of their use. I recommend working a swatch before starting work and choosing which method is suitable for yarn and your future fabric.

Posted on 12.01.202309.02.2023 by Sitalkina Alena

Folded Hem

Folded Hem is an edge that folds under to keep the knitting from curling or stretching.
The knitted fabric is folded to the wrong side and fixed with a crochet hook or needle.
Fixing with a crochet hook makes a solid edge that will not stretch; fixation with a needle makes an edge more elastic.

Folded Hems can be used for the lower edges of knit garments or the neckline.
It can be worked at the same time as the piece (continue knitting without binding off) or picked up after it is complete.

The edge of the hem can be sharp (turning ridge) or rounded (without turning ridge). The edge with slipped or twisted stitches is a more solid.

I recommend using thinner knitting needles for knitting the hem (0.5…1.5 mm thinner than the needles used for the main body). You can remove one thread from the work if the yarn consists of 5-6 threads.
You may have to increase or decrease stitches once the hem is complete, depending on the gauge of the stitch pattern above the hem.

Today we will consider the hems that are worked at the end of the knitting.

Knitting algorithm:

1. Work the desired depth of the hem front part in a stockinette stitch.
2. Work the hem bending (turning ridge, fold line). Some options are presented below.
3. Work the hem inner part in a stockinette stitch (the number of rows / rounds of the hem inner part is one less than the front part).
4. Fold the hem up along the fold line with right side out. Link the open stitches of the hem inner part with the main body. Use a crochet hook or yarn needle.
We get a voluminous hem if link the stitches of the last row / round of the hem inner part with the last row / round of the main body; if link with the first row / round of the hem front part the hem will be a flatter one.
Some options of linking are presented below.

1 – main body (fabric),
2 – marking of the separation of the main body and the hem,
3 – front part of the hem,
4 – hem bending (turning ridge),
5 – inner part of the hem

Recommendations before starting work:

1. The last knitted row / round of the main body (before knitting the hem) can be marked with a contrasting yarn for simplify the linking process.
2. Also you can transfer the stitches from the knitting needles to a waste yarn for simplify the linking process.
3. Try a sample before you begin.
4. If you want to get a solid edge that will not stretch, bind off the stitches of the main body before working the hem. Pick up the stitches for knitting the hem along the bound off edge.

Options of the hem bending (turning ridges):

1. Purl one row / round or work one row / round with twisted purl stitches.

To get a more elastic edge, you can work the row / round before the hem (the last row / round of the front part), the bending row / round and the next row / round (the first row / round of the inner part) with even thinner knitting needles (1.5…2mm).

2. Horizontal chain: *1 twisted knit stitch, 1 knit, turn the first stitch to the left knitting needle in right side (before work). Repeat from * to the end.

Horizontal chain (circular knitting)

3. Work two rows / rounds with the slipped stitches. The edge of the hem can be sharp (work purl stitches) or rounded (work knit stitches).
Row / Rnd 1: *1 knit (purl), slip 1 stitch. Repeat from * to the end.
Row / Rnd 2: *slip 1 stitch, 1 knit (purl). Repeat from * to the end.

Options of linking

1. Graft the open stitches of the hem inner part to the reverse stocknette side of the main body, matching stitch for stitch. Grafting is done on the wrong side. On the main body, follow the line of the purl stitches.
First, measure the working yarn 3.5…4 times longer than the width / circumference of the main body edge, cut it and tuck the yarn into the eye of the needle.

1. Insert the yarn needle knitwise into the first stitch of the hem inner part again

2. Insert the yarn needle purlwise into the next stitch of the hem inner part

3. Drop the stitch off of the knitting needle

4. Draw the yarn through the two stitches

5. Insert the yarn needle into the first horizontal loop (reverse stitch loop) of the main body from down to up (direction from the bend)

7. Insert the yarn needle knitwise into the next horizontal loop (reverse stitch loop) of the main body from up to down (direction to the bend)

9. The stitch of the hem inner part is graften to the main body

Graft the hem to the main body, matching stitch for stitch (circular knitting)

2. Linking with a chain seam on the right side using a crochet hook.

1. There is one stitch on the crochet hook on the right side

2. Insert the crochet hook into the fabric from the right side to the wrong side

3. There is the crochet hook on the wrong side

4. Insert the crochet hook purlwise into the stitch of the hem inner part

7. There are two stitches on the crochet hook on the right side

8. Draw the last stitch through the first

Linking with a chain seam on the right side
(circular knitting)

3. Linking with a chain seam on the wrong side using a crochet hook.
First, measure the working yarn 3.5…4 times longer than the width / circumference of the main body edge, cut the yarn and move it to the right side.

1. There is one stitch on the crochet hook on the wrong side

2. Insert the crochet hook knitwise into the stitch of the hem inner part

3. Insert the crochet hook into the fabric from the wrong side to the right side

4. There is the crochet hook on the right side

7. There are three stitches on the crochet hook on the wrong side

8. Draw the last stitch through two another

Linking with a chain seam on the wrong side
(circular knitting)

If you want to get a solid edge that will not stretch, bind off the stitches of the main body before working the hem. Then, pick up the stitches along the bound off edge and work the hem according to the presented algorithm.
If you want to reduce the width / circumference, evenly decrease several stitches before binding off.

Folded hem which is based on the bound off edge
(you will need to select the desired subtitle language)

This publication provides a general algorithm for the knitting hem with a fold and shows only a part of fairly concise options for it. If you want to accent the design of the hem, draw attention to it, in the process of knitting you can use yarn of different colors, various bend lines, and also supplement parts of the hem with jacquard or patterns.